Białowieża versus Biebrza

For a change of scenery, we all took a day trip to Białowieża National Park. We passed by rapidly changing landscapes of dense forests, fields, and small villages. The most significant shift occurred in Białystok, the major urban center in northeast Poland, composed of high-rise buildings and a confusing web of highways, some of which were not even on the map. Our first stop was to the bison reserve, where patrons are guaranteed to see these endangered animals, if they are not so lucky to spot them in the wilds of the park itself. As we wandered, it became clear that this was more like a zoo with each species on display, rather than a mimicry of the animals’ natural ecosystem. It was particularly dispiriting to see the caged elk and deer, when they are so commonly seen within Biebrza. Outside of the gates, a string of vendors had set up shop, selling everything from tacky souvenirs to baked and farm-raised goods.

At the park’s southern entrance, we were further struck by how tourist-oriented the park was. Clear, paved or cobbled walkways led to an education center, a natural history museum, and a restaurant, but there was no obvious access to hiking trails. We birded as we walked, catching glimpses of species that we had not come across in Biebrza, owing to the drier, forested habitat.

A short drive away was Białowieża’s old-growth forest, which had been salvaged by default through the preservation of royal hunting grounds. All of these trees were named in honor of Poland’s and Lithuania’s most beloved royalty. We strode along a well-kept boardwalk, which made such a short loop through the forest that we retraced our steps back again.

Public access to the park is largely restricted, unless one is willing to invest in hiring a guide. It was difficult to conceive how inaccessible the park was having come from Biebrza, where much trust is put in the public to engage with nature responsibly. However, this is stance is certainly influenced by the fact that Biebrza is not a major tourist attraction, receiving far fewer visitors than Białowieża. Needless to say, it felt wonderful to be back in the wild and rugged Biebrza and homey Gugny.

Generational Destruction

Every history of the "civilized" settlement of the New World, epitomizes the efforts of those first pioneers, how they tamed the land, conquered the wild beasts and the native people, and implemented modern "progress" in the face of adversity.  It was quite an achievement to set off into the unknown and successfully make a living for oneself.  Yet, settlers seemed to have seen the land, not for what it is, but for what it could be; sizing up its potential, its worth.  They shaped it into the places and the lives that they left behind, even though they were trying to get away from it all and start something new with the thought that, somehow, this would be different.  And so, the preexisting life and the processes that had worked well for millions of years were thoughtlessly disrupted and ravaged.  The settlers quickly began to take their surroundings for granted; only taking and never returning, paying back, or appreciating the gifts available to them. 

Today, we continue with this trend, initially marveling at the land’s natural beauty until our thoughts quickly turn to what we can get out of it, how we can benefit.  We continue to ravage natural resources, alter landscapes, never really considering the big picture, the long-term and large scale damaging effects.  Areas boast natural beauty to attract tourists, while simultaneously destroying it to support another economic facet, in order to double their profits.

We have little time to stop and take notice of our environment, to observe the changes that we have created.  Without this time to reflect, the alterations to our landscape seem so gradual in the grand scheme of our time.  We quickly become accustomed to that garden where an old-growth forest once stood, or the little shopping plaza that continues its expansion over former farmland.  These become the norm, as if the landscape never looked any differently.  This makes it easier for us to justify continuing development because it seems that our impact won’t be that much compared to what it is already, but compared to what the environment was decades ago, the consequences are huge.

In the midst of this, we keep seeking out natural beauty to get away from the grotesque urban sprawl, only to bring it with us, as we clear the land to build our lakeside mansions, followed by roads for easier access, and then stores, so that we never have to leave our bubble of a world.  Once there, we complain about the wildlife and their interference with our lives, our quiet and peace of mind.

Occasionally, we lament how the future generations will not see the land as we once saw it or as it once was, yet we continue the mutilation.