Białowieża versus Biebrza

For a change of scenery, we all took a day trip to Białowieża National Park. We passed by rapidly changing landscapes of dense forests, fields, and small villages. The most significant shift occurred in Białystok, the major urban center in northeast Poland, composed of high-rise buildings and a confusing web of highways, some of which were not even on the map. Our first stop was to the bison reserve, where patrons are guaranteed to see these endangered animals, if they are not so lucky to spot them in the wilds of the park itself. As we wandered, it became clear that this was more like a zoo with each species on display, rather than a mimicry of the animals’ natural ecosystem. It was particularly dispiriting to see the caged elk and deer, when they are so commonly seen within Biebrza. Outside of the gates, a string of vendors had set up shop, selling everything from tacky souvenirs to baked and farm-raised goods.

At the park’s southern entrance, we were further struck by how tourist-oriented the park was. Clear, paved or cobbled walkways led to an education center, a natural history museum, and a restaurant, but there was no obvious access to hiking trails. We birded as we walked, catching glimpses of species that we had not come across in Biebrza, owing to the drier, forested habitat.

A short drive away was Białowieża’s old-growth forest, which had been salvaged by default through the preservation of royal hunting grounds. All of these trees were named in honor of Poland’s and Lithuania’s most beloved royalty. We strode along a well-kept boardwalk, which made such a short loop through the forest that we retraced our steps back again.

Public access to the park is largely restricted, unless one is willing to invest in hiring a guide. It was difficult to conceive how inaccessible the park was having come from Biebrza, where much trust is put in the public to engage with nature responsibly. However, this is stance is certainly influenced by the fact that Biebrza is not a major tourist attraction, receiving far fewer visitors than Białowieża. Needless to say, it felt wonderful to be back in the wild and rugged Biebrza and homey Gugny.